3-Blade Folder
Home Site Map About Contact Links

 

Up

I will attempt to explain how I go about designing a sliplock folder. I decided to use a three-blade as example, that way the you can see the basics used to design a trapper, single blade and up to a five blade.

The tools you will need: Some design references, tracing paper or architect's film, clutch pencils, compasses

If you struggle with curves and drawing clean lines, a set of "French curves" might come in handy.

Decide on the size of your knife's handle. Use your palm or fingers to measure from, a large folder might be five finger widths long, a medium folder as long as a hand width, and a small folder about three finger widths.
Draw two vertical lines show the length of your folder when closed.
Draw two horizontal lines to give an indication of the width.
Draw the shape of your handle within this box.

Place a sheet of tracing paper over your handle design and trace the outlines of the handle.
Draw the spring and draw light lines at each end, slightly above halfway between the spring and the bottom of the handle.

Adjust your compass to draw a circle as shown. Note that the circle extends over the bottom of the spring. This is how much the tang of the blade will push up the spring when the blade is being opened or closed. The bottom and side of the circle must be within the outlines of the handle.
The centre of these circles will be the centre of your knife's pivot pins.

Use your compass and draw three arcs:
One for the main blade, and two for the smaller blades.

Draw the three blades, the tips on the arcs.

Trace the main blade and its companion on a piece of tracing paper. Using the tip of your compass, swing the tracing over the main drawing. You must now check that the tips of the blades are inside the handle without the edge touching the spring.
If the edge touches the spring and the tip is outside, redraw the blade.

Trace the bottom of the spring onto the top sheet

Swing the top sheet into the open position and draw the front and back kicks (where the blade will rest on the spring when the knife is closed) using the tracing of the spring bottom as guide.

Repeat these steps for the blade on the other end

Make sure there will be enough room for a nail nick!

Check and re-check that the blades will fit as they are supposed when the knife is opened and when it is closed. Correct your drawings as necessary. On the picture above you can see where I have made some corrections. (I sometimes have to do a design three times before everything works as it should.)

The last step is to place the loose blade tracings underneath the sheet with the full knife, draw the detail of the blades. and add the spring for the main blade.

The completed design, ready for photocopying. Five copies for sticking onto sheet metal to make the templates, and one for filing.


This page last edited on Sunday, 04 September 2011 
 

 

Alphabetical index

Please contact me if you need more information on any of the products or processes.

Pages recently added or updated

Forging a skinning knife
Grind height spreadsheet
Making a sliplock folder - photos added
Spinning pin heads
Making a 3-blade folder
Surface grinding alternative
Designing a three-blade folder
Art Knives (Products)
Fixed blade knives (Products)
Folders (Products)

 

Design Elements • Design Principles • Material selection • Design Limitations • Design Variations • Design Tools • Art Knives • 3-Blade Folder

© CS Burger 2011 All rights reserved. Website last updated on Monday, 03 October 2011